From Mongolia to Michigan and Back

Sunday, May 14, 2006

We made it safe and sound

I am sure a few of you may be anxious to know that we made it to Mongolia, well we did. Since then we have been quite busy, but first a little about the trip. It started out with the United Airlines ticket agent telling us our visas to Mongolia were not in order so our trip was over before it began. Fortunately, the travel agent who screwed all this up in the beginning for us was completely incompetent and couldn't even screw up our itenerary right. Thus we are still leaving Beijing on the 11th of August but we will be leaving Mongolia on the 9th (tentatively). So I convinced the ticket agent this was all within the legal limits of travelling to Mongolia without a Visa and we got on the plane. We got to Chicago alright but then found the trip to China was to take place without movies or inflight radio. They promised a goody bag for us after we exited the flight but one was not forthcoming. Luckily, Amina is able to entertain herself but I am thouroughly disgusted with United. Our flight to Mongolia was delayed 3 hours and after searching for a way to connect in the airport at Bejing for an hour and 15 minutes found this out and waited with no seats (they only have seats at that airport at the gates) for 5 hours. A more miserabletrip it would be hard to have but it did not dampen Amina or Tugsu's spirits.
Fortunately, the trip on MIAT was wonderful, after the completely apathetic United stewardesses the genuinely friendly ones on MIAT were a wonder. We arrived in Mongolia to a hero's welcome at the airport. We went from there to Tugsu's families house at around 1:30 AM and finally went to sleep around 4. We have since been mostly visiting friends and family the past few days, which has kept us very busy and very full! So much wonderful food.
We are currently staying with my friend Anuu and her family, she has a 4 year old daughter who gets along great with Amina and since neither speaks the others language they are both very eager to learn. Tomorrow the real work begins, I have to register with the polic, the embassy, the American Center for Mongolian Studies as well as meet the Mongolian physician who will be carrying out the interviews with me in Husvsgul as well as my friend Khurelee's father who used to work at the Ministry of Health. He will be a great source of information. You will certainly hear more from me about that later. I am off to bed, still having a little trouble with the time adjustment. However, it is to be expected, I am not as young as I used to be. All the best.

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

The time is near (our itenerary)

Well, we leave tomorrow at 5:30 AM for the airport. We still have alot to do but everything is coming along nicely. However, it may be a couple days before I publish on the blog again. You are warned. Tugsu is in the process of repacking our belongings. We will be subletting our place so everything must be put away and cleaned. One extra headache. We are all very excited. We had nice send-offs from our friends and family and a particularly memorable concert put on by Tugsu.


As we prepare to leave we would like to thank all of you for your thoughts and kindness. We also would like you to all have our itenerary. It is difficult for us to receive mail so please use e-mail to get in touch with us. Here is what our schedule looks like:

May 11 Flight #: UA0365 Airline: United Airlines Inc Depart: 07:55 AM Airport: Detroit Wayne County Arpt Terminal LS Detroit, MI USA Arrive: 08:07 AM Airport: Chicago O'Hare Int'l Arpt Terminal 1 Chicago, IL

May 11 Flight #: UA0851 Airline: United Airlines Inc Depart: 12:02 PM Airport: Chicago O'Hare Int'l Arpt Terminal 1 Chicago, IL USA Arrive: 12 May 2006 Airport: Beijing Capital Arpt 02:25 PM Beijing China

May 12 Flight #: OM0224 Airline: Miat Mongolia Depart: 07:30 PM Airport: Beijing Capital Arpt Beijing China Arrive: 10:45 PM Airport: Ulaanbaatar Buyant Uhaa Arpt Ulan Bator Mongolia

Then we will spend 8 days in the capitol, Ulaanbaatar, before heading out as a family to the Darhad Valley in northern Mongolia's aimag (state) of Khuvsgul. Here is a link to an introduction on the place. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Khuvsgul

We will fly from Ulaanbaatar to Murun on May 20th and hopefully be driven 8 hours by jeep to the town of Renchinhlumbe the same day and set up our camp there. Tugsu and I will share a tent and Amina and her niece (nanny) Bandruush will share one. We will stay there till around June 18th and then head back the same way we came to Ulaanbaatar. After we return Tugsu will meet up with her internship coordinater with the Wildlife Conservation Society in Mongolia and head out to Dornod aimag in the eastern steppe for probably a couple weeks.

http://www.legendtour.ru/eng/mongolia/r0600.shtml

I expect her back around July 12th or so. Meanwhile I will take up my post at the National Center for Health Development, an organization managed by the Ministry of Health to provide research and oversight of the public health in Mongolia. I may head back to visit my friend Bill Honeychurch the archaeologist during this time in either the Egiin Gol river valley (my old stomping grounds) or at his new site in Baga Gazryyn Chuluu.

http://www.csen.org/BGC%20All%20Files/BGC_Survey_2006/2006_BGC_Index.html

Then after Tugsu returns we will spend the rest of our time in the capitol enjoying ourselves in a country we love with friends and family we have not seen for almost 6 years. Our return trip looks like this:

August 11 Flight #: OM0223 Airline: Miat Mongolia Depart: 07:25 AM Airport: Ulaanbaatar Buyant Uhaa Arpt Ulan Bator Mongolia Arrive: 08:30 AM Airport: Beijing Capital Arpt Beijing China

August 11 Flight #: UA0888 Airline: United Airlines Inc Depart: 12:05 PM Airport: Beijing Capital Arpt Beijing China Arrive: 08:48 AM Airport: San Francisco Int'l Arpt Terminal I San Francisco, CA USA

August 11 Flight #: UA0720 Airline: United Airlines Inc Depart: 02:00 PM Airport: San Francisco Int'l Arpt Terminal 3 San Francisco, CA USA Arrive: 05:25 PM Airport: Denver Int'l Arpt Denver, CO USA

August 11 Flight #: UA0452 Airline: United Airlines Inc Depart: 06:35 PM Airport: Denver Int'l Arpt Denver, CO USA Arrive: 11:22 PM Airport: Detroit Wayne County Arpt Terminal LS Detroit, MI USA

A long day to be sure, I believe 41 hours. We will see you all then and wish you a wonderful summer. Keep checking back occassionally for updates. Bye!

Tuesday, May 09, 2006

An interesting interview on AIDS

Here is an interesting interview I found on what I consider to be the best blog on Mongolia right now. It can be found at: http://mongolia.neweurasia.net/
The interview is provided below:

All quotations from this interview must be attributed as follows: “‘Mongolian Minister of Health L. Gundalai on HIV/AIDS in Mongolia,’ an Interview by Luke Distelhorst, http://mongolia.neweurasia.net/
May 8, 2006
Luke Distelhorst: From 1992 through March 2006, there were only 15 official cases of HIV/AIDS in Mongolia. Now since April 2006, there have been five new cases.
Lamjaviin Gundalai: Yes, last year before 2005 there were only 10 cases. In 2005 it went up to 15. When I took office, I saw the balance, and last year we had many more AIDS cases. I took action; it was very obvious that AIDS is spreading in Mongolia. I am a Mongolian and a medical physician, I studied medicine in Germany. I have the duty to make the public aware of the issue of HIV/AIDS. You know Mongolians are so sexually liberal. They sleep with each other like animals. There are no rules or customs in Mongolia. Mongolia is one of the most liberal countries in the world. We are an Asian country, but we are not like other Asian countries in terms of sexual liberties. Therefore this one indication that AIDS can spread quickly in Mongolia. Second is the poverty; 60-70% of Mongolians are poor. They cannot afford condoms; they have a lack of money. When they have some money they will use it for food, or vodka or cigarettes. Now they hear they have to use this money for condoms instead of vodka or some other nonsense. Therefore, my duty as Minister of Health was to inform the people about HIV/AIDS. I started a campaign, “Mongolians must learn to use condoms like they ride horses!” Also during the socialist times there was a slogan from Lenin, “Learning, learning and learning.” Now I have changed it to, “Condom, condom and condom.” All Mongolians know these slogans. Now I have said, “Tsövüün tsag,” [devastating times], it is not bad now, but will soon be much worse. I have sent these three messages myself. It is the first time that all Mongolians are aware of the danger. All of the people in the countryside say, “Oh, aids it can be here with us.” All people are now aware. For 14 days we had commercials on seven different channels, all day. I asked stations to give us good air time and reasonable prices. They gave us very cheap prices, normally they would charge us USD$60,000/year, but they made us pay only $6,000. It was only 1/10th of the price. I told them I would give them only $900 and they had to play 10 different commercials for two weeks at the most popular times that people watch TV, all against HIV/AIDS. This is very cheap and effective. Now people know about this danger, and we have reached one of our goals.
LD: Some Mongolian journalists wrote, and some people thought, that the only people who could get HIV/AIDS were sex workers and drug addicts. How is the Ministry of Health (MOH) combating these falsehoods, especially in countryside areas where educational materials are hard to come by?
LG: The Mongolian people are crazy for TV; they always watch TV, from 9 in the morning until 1 at night. There isn’t a whole lot of entertainment in Mongolia, especially in the countryside. A lot of herders have satellite dishes, and if a neighboring family doesn’t have a dish they all go to the family that has a TV. Also there is a lot of, “mouth to mouth advertising,” or conversation. Now it has reached every family in Mongolia. We made these commercials deliberately like this. In Mongolia we have a saying that if you say something one time, it will be repeated ten more times. Also in Mongolia we have a lot of sexually transmitted infections (STI). So if we can educate people to use condoms we can also stop the transmission of STI.
LD: Yeah, a 2003 UNDP report said that 58% of sex workers in Mongolia had at least one STI.
LG: Yes I know. It is a very high number.
LD: The World Health Organization (WHO) advises against coercing any group for testing, not only high risk groups, but testing people from all walks of life. In 2002 the MOH admitted to secretly testing people they felt were high risk. Is this something that they are still doing?
LG: My first goal is not to test the people. My task is to prevent. Healthy, responsible people will not get infected. When someone has AIDS, then it is their problem. When we let the people know about these dangers and they use condoms, are abstinent or are faithful to their partners then we can stop the spread. My problem is not for those who have contracted HIV/AIDS. They have been infected and we can’t do anything. So my goal is to first inform the people about these dangers and make them use condoms. In this way, we think that we can stop the spread in Mongolia. Generally now people are afraid of getting AIDS! So then the problem is solved. Now everyone knows that AIDS is dangerous and that there are a lot of cases in Mongolia. All of the people, not only the people in Ulaanbaatar, but the countryside as well; young, old, rich, poor, now they all know, but we will not stop.
LD: Right, but for international people coming to Mongolia, are they tested? AIDS groups working in China, just to the south, have speculated that there are as many as 700,000 infected with HIV/AIDS. Now when people come here to live, what is the system? I know that international students need to be tested, but there are thousands of impoverished laborers here as well.
LG: Yes, these people do not have the requirement of being tested. At the same time I am working with the Ministry of Labor to try and write a resolution together so that every worker who comes here for a long time has to give an HIV test. We have agreed on this and we don’t need a law for it. We can do this within the ministries and put this into use. Also I am planning to pass a law in Parliament that every bottle of vodka and every pack of cigarettes must have a condom with it. This will help us reach everywhere. Just like TV, there are cigarettes and vodka every where in Mongolia. We want to put condoms in all of these places as well.
LD: There are a couple of NGOs that have worked with homosexuality and HIV/AIDS in Mongolia. Is the MOH also working with these groups to not only look at heterosexual transmission, but homosexual as well?
LG: Homosexual transmission is very rare in Mongolia. It is just a few people. Maybe a couple thousand people and it is their problem. We do not go to them and test them. Again, we are working for education.
LD: In 2004 there was a law that was passed to protect the identities and rights of those people who were found to be infected. Not too long ago there was the incident where a woman’s boss claimed she had AIDS, it was printed in the Mongolian papers and her husband beat her to death. She, in fact, did not have AIDS. How can we protect people from situations like this one?
LG: This was a bitter lesson for Mongolia. Now newspapers or TV will not broadcast about someone who may or may not have HIV/AIDS. Mongolia is small, everyone knows each other. It was a bad lesson, but at least now people have learned what they shouldn’t do. I don’t think we will see those things in the newspaper or media again.
LD: Two weeks ago on The Forum Show, the first TV interview with a Mongolian who has AIDS was broadcast. How important was that for Mongolians to see another Mongolian who has AIDS, and hear that person talk about it in a more personal way?
LG: I think such kinds of TV are very important in Mongolia. People understood quite well, about how that young man is living. Now people are afraid of getting AIDS.
LD: As you mentioned before many people cannot afford condoms. Many places, such as schools, universities and clinics, in developed countries have condoms available for free. In Mongolia the companies that sell condoms keep the prices low, and only make enough money to cover the import costs. Is the MOH working to make condoms widely available for free for the impoverished citizens of Mongolia? In surveys, Mongolian youths reported that they are having sex for the first time at the ages of 16-17.
LG: [big sigh] ah, this is a problem. I have never seen free condoms in Mongolia. The Global Fund distributes some free condoms to the countryside and some groups of people, but in reality the shops or kiosks resell these condoms. I have never heard of or seen free condoms in Mongolia.
LD: In 2003, before you became the Minister of Health, the MOH stated that as many as 200 people had already died of AIDS, and up to 1,000 are currently infected. How much have those numbers changed in the last three years?
LG: I think this figure is low. I think there are even more, which is a quite significant figure.
LD: Some Mongolians are very poorly informed and think that they can only get HIV/AIDS from foreigners.
LG: Yes, this is also a problem. The last case, number 20, he contracted it from Mongolian sex workers. We said this on TV that he got it within Mongolia. We need to say to the people that it can be everywhere. This is our message, if you don’t use condoms it can hurt you.
LD: Also a couple weeks ago there as a student march which involved many young people, and the commercials you have put on TV primarily use young, popular figures. Singers, athletes, etc.
LG: We sent out 12 different messages with pop and hip hop singers, MP S. Oyun, big wrestlers and even myself. This kind of message is quite interesting because the youth listen to these people. Now the youth are saying, “AIDS is in Mongolia, you must use condoms.” Under each message we say, “use condoms.” We don’t have too many drug users, and we still don’t have a confirmed case of AIDS that has come from blood transfusion. All of our cases have been sexually transmitted.
LD: Back on the Mongolian media, some papers will only report the short facts and stats of new AIDS cases, and don’t go into the disease in a personal way that more people will be able to relate to. How can the MOH get involved to help the others relate to those who have been infected and show that there aren’t any differences?
LG: When we had the 18, 19 and 20th cases, each time we gave a press conference and said if the person was male or female, how old, how they contracted it, etc. But the media only writes what they like, they don’t write too much. We invited them and gave them all the information we could and convinced them to write. All of the MOH people were there, and they asked us many questions, but they didn’t write anything. We told them to report this issue well, and told them that if they did a good job we could give them Tg10 or 20,000. But they didn’t do it. This is one dilemma in Mongolia; all of the newspapers have their own bosses. Most of the bosses are politicians and are affiliated with certain parties. I am the chairman of a new party, I don’t have a TV station or paper, and other groups don’t want to broadcast about what we have done here. This is why we asked them to put these stories on the front page or maybe the second page and we could pay them a little more. We had fundraising and got money for advertisement about HIV/AIDS. Without this funding for advertising it will not go through and get into the mass media.
LD: What is the current main focus of the MOH on HIV/AIDS? Finding out how many cases actually exist, or education and prevention?
LG: Prevention and education is the easiest thing we can do. Mongolia is not a rich country, and right now we don’t have much money. We can’t treat all the people and most of the time we don’t have sufficient equipment. Now we are planning to have a forum on TV that will be only about health in Mongolia. We have talked with many TV stations, and they want USD$1,000/week. So for a year it is almost $60,000 and the MOH doesn’t have this kind of money. Even National TV which is now public, asked us for Tg1.6 million per week, which is USD$1,300. This is for a 50 minute program, only about health, once a week. Even they don’t support us at all. The old forum show covered all topics in Mongolia and is now done, but the new one that we want to start will only cover health. There are a lot of topics that need to be covered on health! Some of our future campaigns are going to cover traffic accidents and household accidents that can be easily prevented. In traffic, every five days, one child is killed by a car accident. Every second day, one adult dies in a car accident. It is like a small war in Mongolia. Also in Naadam so many small children get injured falling off of their horses. Also in winter they still race their horses and get frostbite and eye damage. More than 10,000 children get injured in horse races every year. We must stop this, this is so stupid, and we aren’t caring enough for our children. There are many simple things that Mongolians don’t know about how to protect our children. Every year, 70 children die from drinking poisonous items like acid that are kept in refrigerators. We will address problems like this that are so easy to fix, and say it on TV so many people will hide or destroy these poisons. Also we need to work on stopping the import of such items. Mongolians have a lack of knowledge about these problems.
LD: Is the MOH going to print out educational books and pamphlets for those who do not have access to TV, especially in the countryside?
LG: No, no. I spoke with all of the HIV/AIDS organizations here and told them, “Let’s all work together, we need to be united.” Then we can have joint programs and have better results. For instance the Global AIDS Fund spends a lot of money on brochures and books, but I said this is bullshit. The most important things in Mongolia are TV and radio. Nothing more. If you want to spend money against HIV/AIDS, give your money to TV and radio, and since then they have paid three times as much as we have for advertising and educational programs. I also said that I will go to these stations myself to meet with the directors, and I did. I went there with less than $1,000 and told them that they must do this, this is for the Mongolian people, and they agreed. Before I sent my workers, and the directors said they had to pay $60,000. I don’t have this money! The education is most important though. I also want to improve primary health care in Mongolia. We have too many specialists, and not enough general practitioners. In developed countries these general doctors and family practice doctors can treat up to 80% of the patients. In Mongolia, it is only 20%.
LD: Well thank you for your time.
LG: Thank you and I hope we can fight against HIV/AIDS in Mongolia. AIDS has already spread so much in Mongolia, and we can’t stop what has already happened, but we need to stop the spread and save our future generations. I want to make the people aware, and make sure they protect themselves, because we can’t protect them.
END

I would love to hear what you experts in HIV/AIDS think of this interview.
You can either post a comment here or send me your thoughts via e-mail.

Talk to you about Mongolia soon. We leave in two days!